Harpeth River

Make a Narrow Escape from Shuttling

By Crystal Waters

The worst thing about paddling a river in your own boats is the shuttle. For those who would like a little break from that, there is the Harpeth River just outside of Nashville. It's a twisty little river cutting through scenic bluffs and flat agriculture. So twisty, in fact, there is a part called the Narrows where the river doubles back on itself, making a loop, and you can take out a mere 200 yards or so of where you put in. The only drawback is that the Narrows is only about 5 miles long, so the journey isn't a particularly long one. But, hey, no shuttle! Just come in one car, park it, and float right back to it.

When I visited in the fall, (we drove from Memphis and back the same day) the Harpeth was as clear as a mountain stream. And just as cold. We paddled the Narrows and got to see where Nineteenth Century industrialist Montgomery Bell constructed a 290-foot tunnel through solid rock to channel water for his iron forge. The water still roars through this tunnel.


In the spring, when my family met up with two other families to camp in Montgomery Bell State Park and float the river, the Harpeth was churned up and running fast due to rain. Think a small river doesn't have real power?
Take a look at this log pile that the Harpeth stacked up against a bridge support.








In fact, the Narrows was closed because of flooding, so we had to do the leg just upstream. At first we were disappointed but soon found that this section has its own delights, including a waterfall. We stopped for lunch at a park that overlooks the river where the women found restrooms.


Depending on what part of the river you paddle, you can see waterfalls, the amazing Bell tunnel, an ancient Indian ceremonial center called Mound Bottom, even a petroglyph. You might also see a rusted out old Ford, some turkey, and plenty of cows. And of course, you can smell the pastures. In all, the Harpeth offers up 150 miles of class I river. It's a relaxing and scenic river with some good fishing. And there are plenty of outfitters, should you want to rent boats, including Foggy Bottom Canoe, Canoe Music City, and Tip-A-Canoe.


Like most rivers, the Harpeth is threatened by agricultural runoff and urban pollution. But there are folks looking after it, and their efforts are making a difference.